Bolivian Birthday

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I could not have wished for a better birthday that the birthday that I celebrated in Bolivia.

I woke up in the morning to the messages of my friends on my phone. I read the lovely birthday letter that Pia had sent me in the mail, and instantly put on the bracelet that she had made me. After eating breakfast, I left for work earlier than usual. Still sitting in the bus, Roly called me to with me a happy birthday, which put me in a bit of a sad mood that lasted throughout the morning. I had hoped that he would be waiting for me at work, but his call wishing me a happy birthday "de lejos" - from far away - killed that hope. I arrived at work to the kind embraces of my friend Betty, who lives at Plataforma, and who, on top of all, had got me a little bag as a birthday present. This lightened my mood, and giving a big hug to my little ones, Esteban and Edwin, almost made me forget my sad thoughts about Roly. As my other coworkers arrived, Plataforma came to life, and I spent my morning babysitting my two boys, watching videos and goofing around. Annai, my little favorite, clung to me all morning which made me laugh. She´s a case of her own :).

Since we had already celebrated my birthday at work along with my two coworker´s birthdays, I did not expect anything more. We had already eaten cake and blown out the candles the day before, so that we would not do anything else. Julian would come to work in the afternoon, so that we were not even complete - as a team.

As lunch hour approached, I took a break from the kids to wash dishes and take a breath. As I sat down to eat lunch with my usual group of kiddies, Blanca, a very clingy little girl of five, surprised me with a big, red flower.

"For you!" she smiled. What a sweet, little gift. I was super grateful. I gave her a big hug and a long kiss on the cheek. Then Gabri announced that it was my birthday, so that the kids applauded briefly and some wished me a happy birthday. Here, the birthdays are mostly interesting if there is candy or cake to give away, at least among the kids. That´s why the flower touched my heart.

Despite my initial doubts, Roly´s mom, Doña Marcia pulled me into a big hug to wish me a happy birthday and told me that Don Freddy, her husband, was waiting for me at the house and that there was a surprise. I thought, that they had maybe made me lunch, which brought an immediate smile to my face. When, however, Doña Marcia called the rest of my coworkers to come along to her house, I was completely confused.

As we all walked over to Doña Marcia´s house across the street - in the flock Betty, Chino, Gabri, Dani, Kaledth, Ricardo, and Pedro (a new volunteer from Poland), I had no idea what was awaiting me, just that Doña Marcia seemed very happy, smiling broadly.

In the patio a big table set with plates, a big bowl of mote, salad, and yuca awaited me along with don Freddy, grilling meat and fish - typical churrasco style with the charcoal on the ground and the grill plate above, raised a bit from the ground by bricks. Flashback - only the other day Roly had taught me to light the amber with newspaper and an empty glass bottle.

I hugged Don Freddy and thanked him and told him how beautiful everything was. As I turned around to the house, I saw someone walking out the door towards the patio where we were. Half covered by the towels hanging from the clothesline, I could not believe who was standing there, smiling. Covering my mouth by surprise, I half started running towards Roly who opened his arms to hug me. I did not let him go for about a felt half hour, whispering "I can´t believe it", at which he replied "Happy birthday, love". What a surprise. I can´t put in words all the emotions I felt at seeing him, joy, love, amazement, and absolute happiness aren´t big enough words to describe what I felt. Even now I can´t stop smiling at the memory. Never before in my life has anyone traveled 7 hours (one way) for just a day to see me and give me a hug and kiss on my birthday.

He told me how he had planned everything, with care, so that I would not find out that he was in SCZ. Even Betty, who is usually the most gossipy of us all, kept her mouth shut to make the surprise a real surprise. I had not even dreamed that Roly would actually come to visit me on my birthday.

Like they say here: me dejó boca abierta.

As we went back to sit with the others, everyone was happy to see me happy and smiling. We ate well, laughed a lot, and enjoyed the presence of each other, making jokes. Everyone at the table was in a good mood, which was absolutely lovely to see.

After finishing the meal, I though the surprises were over, but I was mistaken. Lauren, Roly´s sister, came to the patio carrying small cake plates, and Don Freddy brought a huge cake to where I was sitting. He called Roly over to give me the cake, which he did, wishing me a happy birthday for the second time. I was blown away by surprise and happiness.

The whole group sang me a happy birthday, and made me blow out the candle. Then, as it is the tradition here, everyone started chanting "Que la muerde, que la muerde", which means: bite the cake. So, I bit the cake, and Chino or Roly shoved my head into the cake as it is the ritual, so that I ended up with cake all over my face. I could not stop laughing. I had hoped for this.  We were all laughing, delighted as kids. The cake was delicious, and as we shared, one of the girls from the Comedor came by to give me and Daniela, whose birthday had been the day before, two super nice tops.

To finish the afternoon off, I stayed in with Roly, still feeling like in a dream but incredibly happy to cuddle up next to him and tell him that I love him.

At night I talked to my parents, and was, looking back, the happiest girl in the world.

I will not forget the kindness - cariño - of everyone who made this the best birthday that I can remember. Thank you so much.

Las Lomas

The week of the dancing Lomas.

Just two days after getting back from the Amboro, the "Españoles" decided to explore the night life of Santa Cruz. Since I usually don´t go out partying, I used the opportunity to go with them. We left at 9pm form Plataforma and met Julian and some more friends in a Restaurant with a live band and a space to dance. We sat down, ate dinner and drank beer (well, I drank a Piña Colada). After a few beers for them we got up to dance Cumbia, the typical music here. We all had a really good time, especially because one of the friends JJ has a humor inexplicably funny, so that we were laughing all the night.

It was great to see everyone so loose, especially Julian my boss and friend, who enjoyed himself visibly. Betty, my friend and coworker also loosened up, but rather through the beer than through enjoying herself. I do think she had a good time though.

At around 2am the restaurant closed. We were all quite tired so that we took a taxi back to Plataforma. And only a few hours later..........

We took a bus to the sand dunes half an hour away from Plataforma with the kids!!!!!

I think those two days were poison for my cold that was still lingering....and that only got worse and worse because I didn´t get rest....but, what can I do? There´s some things that only come around once in life.

The Lomas de Arena took my breath away, in a completely different way than the Amboro. From where the bus left us, we had to walk 2 hours through sand and trees until getting to the dunes. I hadn´t imagined anything, but the dunes were beautiful. Sand everywhere and we had to walk up the first dune, which was like walking into the nothing, everything white, white, white...and then, out of the nowhere, I could see over the dune.

Instead of more sand, which I was expecting, I saw a green lagoon!

What an image. We walked another bit to get to the lagoon with water a deep, deep blue, and surrounded by dunes and mountains.

We ate the lunches we had brought and I took a quick swim with the girls.

Later I walked around the lagoon. I was blown away by the quietness, so different from the sounds of the city, and so different from the sounds of the Amboro - but just 30 mins from the city and 4 hours form the Amboró.

In the midst of the lagoon I saw two small red birds and a swarm of white birds take off as I moved closer.

I practiced my handstand with Aurora, bonding with her, and then played volleyball with Jason, one of the boys from the Comedor. It was a lovely trip.

The Jungle

It took me almost a year to see the true beauty of Bolivia.

Not only have I seen landscapes that I never dreamed of, I have also felt the warmth and hospitality of the people.

Last weekend, I took a jump into the unknown and went to the Amboró National Park with four Spanish volunteers from my work. Even though we only went for a weekend, it was worthwhile. We left for Buena Vista on Friday afternoon. The trip of three hours we spent mostly in silence, each with his or her own thoughts while the landscape flew by, once in a while changing from green trees to yellow fields with wheat plants of about 2 meters or the dried out bed of a river. Up to now, everything seemed very normal, very typical and similar to what I had seen on previous trips to the same region. We got to Buena Vista at dinner time, booked our tour to the park with a travel agency, and ate at a rather touristy restaurant. The next morning we left Buena Vista for the park in a Jeep with our tour guide. The moment that we sat down in the Jeep, the adventure started. The landscape changed drastically as we drove further away from B.V. on a narrow dust road. We made our way by fields of orange trees, crossed rivers where it seemed like the jeep would drown in the water because there were no bridges, and, finally, we drove down steep hills to end up at the edge of the jungle. Only smelling the air was enough for me to fall in love with the Amboró National Park. It was like walking in to one of those tropical houses, only that it was not just a small room, but literally all the air around me that was filled with the smell of humidity and green vegetation. I wish I could have filled up a jar with that smell, to make it last. After a few more minutes on a bumpy path, the forest cleared up a bit and the road smoothed out. We could see the camp site where we would be staying. Made up of a wood patio with a ceiling of the typical banana plant leaves, a space for the guides, bathrooms with running water, and a small kitchen area, the cam hardly seemed like it was in the midst of the jungle. Once we got off the jeep, a soft wind started blowing, like welcoming us, making the leaves of a tree nearby fall gently to the ground like snow. It all seemed like a dream.

We took just a few minutes to take a look around, inspecting the camp. Then, our guide took us for our first hike through the jungle to waterfalls about an hour away from camp. It was crazy to enter the jungle like that, on a path broad enough for just one person, lined with trees so huge that it took more than three of us to reach around the trunk with our arms stretched out wide. We walked, sweating in the humidity, taking every little detail in; the butterflies, the roots of the trees, magically colored a deep red, the soft light filtered by layers and layers of leaves....

We got to the waterfalls glad to see the cool water. I must admit, I had seen more spectacular waterfalls, but nevertheless the surrounding was beautiful. It was hot, so that we jumped from a cliff right into the water with joy (and a bit of respect for the height). We took a good while to relax in the water and explore the surrounding of the pool of clear water.

I took a moment to stroll away from the group, absorbing the green beauty around me, the fresh air, and the sunlight on my skin.

Having rested well, we started our way back to the camp, stopping a few points where the tour guide pointed out special details to us. First, he took us down the stream from the waterfall, where we got to see the femur of a dinosaur buried within the stony bed of the river. The guide told us that archeologists had intended to remove the bone, but that locals had protested and the bone stayed where it was. It was weird to see something so old, so strong even after the centuries.

Next we entered the jungle and walked until we saw a liana hanging from a tree. One by one, we got to swing from the ground to a near-by tree. Note: In the movies this looks super easy. It´s not. But we had a lot of fun trying to grab the liana tight and get to the other side.

Back at the camp, we took a quick nap to regain strength and mentally prepare for the longer walk in the afternoon. We ate lunch that the guides prepared for us - everyone was super open and the hospitality was more than I had expected. After planning out the afternoon and the next day, we set off for the second time that day to explore the jungle. Since we were a bit short on time, we had to rush to get to the second waterfall of the day and the walk there was not that enjoyable as the first. Of course, the atmosphere and surrounding were still beautiful, just that we did not have the time to breathe and take it all in.

Once we got to the waterfall, I noted a change in lighting: the sun was slowly setting .Even though it was still early, the trees stood so high that the sunlight was starting to vanish, tinting the waterfall before us into a golden light. This waterfall was higher than the first, the water hitting the rocks and clear water at the bottom with a rushing crash. We stayed until we were all shivering with cold, because the air soon cooled off, maybe from the lack of sunlight, maybe form the water. Since I was getting over a cold (that still has me coughing now because I didn´t take good care of myself) I decided to not go into the water, but it was still cooler than before. We hiked back home (to the camp). After about half way, our guide pointed out a stone wall in front of us. The wall had a gap in the middle through which we could see a lake and a single stone at the other side. It was a beautiful sight, almost incredible that nature comes up with forms and colors as such. We stayed for a bit, taking pictures and admiring the stone structure.

To get back to the camp, we had to cross various little rivers, jumping over stones, careful not to fall in. I had already slipped on the way to the waterfall, filling one of my boots with water. On the way back I had managed not to fall. Just about 10 meters before camp we had to cross one last river. And, what a surprise, I did fall, now with two wet boots, but it was worth it. :)

Exhausted, we set up our tents as the last light did fade and the sun set behind the horizon.  We ate dinner made up of a delicious veggie soup, and Clara, Ricardo and I declared that we would like to go on a night walk. I have no clue where we got the energy from.

A different guide called us at about 10 pm to get our things together, to take long sleeved shirts and pants, and flashlights. Clara and I (with whom I got along super well) asked for a picture with the guide that turned out super.

Leaving the camp for the third time that day was even stranger and more magical than the first time. The moon stood high already, and it guided us for a bit, as we took a different path than in the day. The jungle seemed like another world in the dark, with only the moonlight and the beams of our flashlights showing the way. A few steps into the Jungle we stopped to turn off our lights and embrace the dark, and the quiet that, all of a sudden, now that we could not hear the sounds of our own feet, filled with all sorts of noises, like the rustling of falling leaves, the wind in the trees, and insects chirping. I loved the feeling of being in a space that was not mine, that belonged to the animals of the night, and that I could only quietly observe, but not fully understand. We took a turn into a small path leading straight into the jungle, with bushes and plants on either side that had seemed so colorful and alive in the sunlight, but now just black shadows.

The guide told us that it would be a bit tricky to hike the way he had proposed to go. We were heading for an outpost, overlooking the jungle. We all agreed to take the risk and turn around if we got tired. First, we had to cross a river in the dark, luckily with the help of the guide who was wearing rubber boots (and had a machete). Luckily, none of us fell. When we thought that the worst part was over, we started hiking up an inclimb. A very steep inclimb. To not ware you, we got up the in climb, but it took much of our energy. The rest of the way was even and not as cruel as the in climb. After a while more, the guide stopped abruptly. "Look" he said. Before us. Was a mouse like animal with big eyes climbing up the tree. We had spotted the first animal!!!

Shortly after, we got to the outlook, and it made even all the way we had come. Through a clearing in the trees, we could see that we were high up in the jungle, really overlooking much of the Ambor'o National Park. At the horizon, we could see the lights if Yaquiba, a village outside the Amboro, flickering, and when we turned off our lights, we could see the stars. The guide told us to be still to see if we could hear animals. Truth is, we were waiting for a tiger that had been seen about three days before in the same area. We sat and sat, listening to the sounds of the jungle, all a bit nervous.

After about half an hour, the tour guide announced that we should get going, since he had not heard anything. We made our way back, with a bit of fear, down the in climb that we had climbed up. We got to the camp ok, and sat down to chat with the tour guide, who had invited us to a caipirinha. We talked about life and the jungle, about how he had moved to the camp with his son as a caretaker after his second wife had left him, and how nature had helped him heal his heart. It was beautiful to listen to him tell his stories.

As we were all getting more tired and tired, we went to sleep quite fast. I was going to sleep in a tent with the other three girls, but I felt like sleeping in the hammock outside instead. I soon regretted the decision, as the lights went out and I lay in complete darkness, with just the sounds of the night filling my ears. It was an experience that I will never forget; all the sounds of the night making the dark seem even more endless. I looked to my left to see the stars glittering and did enjoy my personal adventure. It felt like I did not sleep at all, but since I woke up in the morning to the quiet murmurs of the girls I must have fallen asleep at one point.

After a more than delicious breakfast on Sunday morning, we took off for the longest of the four hikes with the instructions to take just the necessary, and, if possible, just the things that could get wet. Surprisingly, we were all blooming with energy. We started out on the same path that we had taken at night - how different it seemed in daylight - and walked along the side of the jungle for a while. We were noticeably walking away from the heart of the jungle because the vegetation changed the trees shorter and not as closely packed. When we turned into the jungle, we saw butterflies in all colors. It was a completely different feel than the day before. We saw piles of caterpillars on the floor, black and hairy. The guide said that they would soon change into the butterflies that we saw in the air making me think: maybe people are, in a way, like the caterpillars, maybe ugly and weird at first, but they change, just like the caterpillars, into beautiful beings after they first spin and then crack their cocoon.

We left the jungle to start walking up a river. It was like walking in paradise, a stream of clear water running across rocks slick with green algae, the air humid but fresh, and around us everything green, green, green. It was rough walking on the rocks, but it was worth it every step. One of our two guides gave me a walking stick so that I could keep my balance better, which helped me endlessly. At points, the rocks got bigger so that we had to climb, and at points the rocks flattened out to a ridge where the water flowed freely. When we took a look back, we saw the river flowing softly through a valley of green. Words cannot describe the beauty of this place.

With ever step, our journey got more and more magical. We saw little waterfalls, water dripping down the mossy walls like rain, creating a rainbow, and the next moment our guide told us that we would be leaving our things and swim across a pool of crystal clear water to continue our way, and then either climb over a rock or swim under the same one. I chose to swim under the rock with my guide, a sensation hard to describe. It was like going from one place to another in matters of a second, the water cool on my skin, and the air on the other side of the rock warming me after this short time of being completely emerged under...the earth?

After this already very real adventure, we had the chance to see a cave with bats, me being the only one who wanted to see the bats. It was crazy to see about 300 bats hanging from the ceiling in piles. They started flying over our heads (I was with one of the guides) when we showed the flashlights on them.

We had to swim through more pools of water until we got to the final stop: a waterfall much higher those before, submerging into a pool of water and surrounded by high walls of cool stone. It was paradise. I'm pretty sure of it. We took some pictures with the camera that we had brought along in a plastic bag, but the pictures only show about a fourth of the real beauty. Everything was cool, gleaming with water, moss shiny with little drops of water falling from high above.

I did not want to leave, but after a while we did have to make our way back. We walked like we came, getting to camp exhausted but happy.

After two more than beautiful days, the time had come to pack up our things to drive back to Buena Vista and then Santa Cruz.

I can only promise you that you will not regret to visit Bolivia and its beautiful nature if you ever have the time and money.

Amboró National Park 1